• 2000 Camry Timing Belt Diagram

Customers often ask what the correct procedure is for adjusting the valve lash on their engines. It seems that anyone they ask provides a different procedure. The information and step-by-step procedure provided below should make it easy for just about everyone reading this article to understand-from the experienced mechanic or racer to the do-it-yourselfer attempting it for the very first time.Please read this entire article to understand correct valve adjustment procedures for most engines.

Introduction to Adjusting Solid and Hydraulic Lifters. The last one above is quite important. If after reading through this and you are still a bit confused, please ask for help or have someone else do it. In the very least you can have someone who is more knowledgeable walk you through the process we describe here to make sure you understand the procedure. If you are wondering what can go wrong, here is a short describing what can occur:. Poor running engine and low performance. Failed smog test (if this is a smog-legal street driven vehicle).

Burnt exhaust valve(s). Broken valvetrain components (springs, pushrods, lifters, camshaft). Limited or reduced lifespan of valvetrain components. Excessive valve guide and valve seat wear. Blown up engine. Lose an important Race!. Empty, or put a substantial dent in your bank account.

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For those of us with Ford, GM LS-Series, and other engines that utilize 'Non-Adjustable' valvetrain. WE MUST verify that our machinist did their job correctly when setting the valve stem heights, and then WE MUST also verify proper plunger depth when using Hydraulic Lifters. If we switch to solid lifters it is mandatory that we convert to an adjustable valvetrain (I would also say that converting to adjustable valvetrain is mandatory in ALL racing applications as well as any application where we want to have accurate control of our valve lash setting).

Not doing so is asking for serious problems!PLEASE NOTE:I have written this article somewhat backwards, and I have a very good reason for doing so. I want to expose you to the procedure and then describe how it works and why it works.

Experience with our customers has taught me that while I have asked you, the reader of this article, to forget what you may have been taught, such grand requests on my part rarely occur. For some, the whole experience of adjusting an engine's valvetrain is confusing enough.Instead, I will expose the reader to the procedure to generate thought about how this works.Please read through ENTIRE article before you begin to adjust your valves! ENGINE OFF Valve Adjustment Procedure - The Quick and Accurate Way. Intake Valve Adjustment: ENGINE OFF!. with #1 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift.

Adjust #6 Intake Valve. with #8 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift. Adjust #5 Intake Valve. with #4 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift. Adjust #7 Intake Valve.

with #3 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift. Adjust #2 Intake Valve. with #6 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift.

Adjust #1 Intake Valve. with #5 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift.

Adjust #8 Intake Valve. with #7 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift. Adjust #4 Intake Valve. with #2 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift. Adjust #3 Intake Valve. You will notice that this is the same procedure and sequence as the intake valves listed above. Only now you are adjusting ONLY the exhaust valves the same way.

with #1 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift. Adjust #6 Exhaust Valve. with #8 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift. Adjust #5 Exhaust Valve. with #4 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift. Adjust #7 Exhaust Valve. with #3 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift.

Adjust #2 Exhaust Valve. with #6 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift.

Adjust #1 Exhaust Valve. with #5 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift. Adjust #8 Exhaust Valve. with #7 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift.

Adjust #4 Exhaust Valve. with #2 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift.

Adjust #3 Exhaust ValveExplanation. ENGINEFIRING ORDEROPPOSITESAMC (most) V81-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 (same as example above)Buick V8 (most)1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 (same as example above)Chrysler Big Block & Hemi V81-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 (same as example above)Chrysler Small Block V81-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 (same as example above)Oldsmobile (1967-later) V81-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 (same as example above)Pontiac (1955-1981) V81-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 (same as example above)Ford 5.0L HO, 351W, 351C, 351M, 400 V81-3-7-2-6-5-4-81 & 6; 3 & 5; 7 & 4; 2 & 8Ford (most other) V81-5-4-2-6-3-7-81 & 6; 5 & 3; 4 & 7; 2 & 8. Importance of Lifter PositionIf the position of the lifter on the camshaft lobe is anywhere other than on the heel (note image above) where there is NO ramp contact when making adjustments, the lash setting will be incorrect. This position is required for each valve before you attempt to perform adjustments. The chart and procedure above ensures that the lifter is on the backside of the cam lobe for each valve.In the past we were often instructed by the auto shop teacher or service manual to position each cylinder at TDC (piston at Top Dead Center), and then adjust both valves for that cylinder. However, we often find that this is not the correct procedure to obtain the proper lash setting, especially on modern engines or agressive camshaft profiles.

The image at right shows the required position of the cam lobe relationship to the lifter that ensures correct valve lash adjustment. It is time to describe the actual wrench turning. How many of us read or were taught that with a hydraulic lifter camshaft, we must adjust it down to where there is slight pushrod resistance (zero lash) and then turn it down 3/4 or a full turn? I was originally taught the wrong way too, both by instructors and by following inaccurate procedures in various shop manuals. When we followed these methods, our adjustment likely opened the valves slightly, preventing the valves from closing all the way! Our valves were not set correctly! The typical hydraulic lifter requires an adjustment that is roughly half the available travel of the plunger.

If an average hydraulic lifter plunger has a range of 0.060' (sixty thousands of an inch) of travel from fully compressed to its static height where the pushrod seat is up against the retaining ring, half of that distance will be +/- 0.030' (thirty thousands of an inch). This means that we must adjust the valves to fall between the depth that the plunger in the lifter drops.

If adjusted too tight (the plunger fully compressed) the valves stay open slightly, and do not close all the way. This removes the important cooling time (lash) that removes heat from the valve stem. If the engine is complete and installed in the vehicle, warm up the engine by running it until it gets to operating temperature (15-minutes or so).

'Cold' adjustments should only be used on new engines on as a preliminary adjustment on the engine stand. This is another area that has been taught wrong in auto shop classes and very expensive service manuals since the 1950's. Imagine the hands on a clock.

You have the obvious 12:00, 3:00, 6:00, and 9:00 o'clock positions as well as the numbers in-between those points. Start with your wrench at the 12:00 position and turn it clockwise to the 6:00 position you have just made 1/2 turn. Going from 12:00 to the 3:00 position would be 1/4 turn.

Many manuals say to adjust the valves three quarters to one full turn. THIS IS INCORRECT!!!!

PRECAUTION: When working on older high mileage engines or those that use poor quality lifters you may experience a condition where the lifters bleed off pressure (drain the oil out of the lifter body), causing inaccurate valve adjustment. Oil must remain in the hydraulic lifter in order to achieve an accurate valve lash setting.

If repeated attempts to adjust the valves using the 'cold adjustment' procedure fails, lifters bleeding off may be the cause. Two options exist to solve this issue. ONE: replace the lifters or TWO: adjust the valves using the 'HOT' running method described below. Some helpful hints:. Adjust only one side of the engine at a time. Use oil restrictors (deflectors) on the rocker arms, or better yet a butchered up old valve cover that has an access cut into the top of it to facilitate adjustment access AND oil deflectors.

Stay calm. You WILL get burnt, you WILL make a mess and you WILL not look forward to doing this again, especially if you screw up the first time. Using a mechanic's stethoscope can substantially make this procedure easier, especially if the engine is loud or you have hearing issues.

Adjusting hydraulic lifters with the engine running is not one of my favorite activities (as you can tell by how many times I mention my distaste for it). With the above considerations addressed you are ready to go:. Start the engine and allow it to warm up.

Turn off the engine. Remove one valve cover and install your deflector clips, custom valve cover, or whatever apparatus you are using to keep the oil splash to a minimum. Start the engine back up. Begin to loosen one of the rocker arm adjusting nuts. You should hear the valvetrain just start to 'clatter'. Slowly tighten the rocker nut down just until the louder 'clatter' stops.

Turn the wrench an additional 1/8 - 1/2 turn to set the plunger depth (lifter preload). Continue (repeat) this procedure on each of the remaining the valves. Turn off the engine.

Remove your oil splash apparatus and re-install the valve cover. Repeat these steps on the other side of your engine (if a V8). First, warm the engine to operating temperature (about 15-minutes) and then quickly remove both of the valve covers. Follow the adjustment chart above. With the #1 Intake valve at FULL LIFT.

This means that you turn the engine by hand until the intake valve on the #1 cylinder is fully open (watch the rocker arm push down on the top of the valve stem, compressing the valve spring until it stops moving downward). You can now adjust the intake valve on 'opposite in firing order' cylinder (see the above chart).

Remember, the opposite is engine firing order dependent. In this article I am using the small and big block Chevy engines as the example, so this would be the #6 cylinder. Loosen the rocker slighly (if using roller rockers there is typically a Jam Nut that you must first loosen with an Allen Wrench).

For example, a cam card recommends a valve lash setting of.022'. Get out the.022' feeler gauge and place it between the top of the valve stem and the rocker arm tip. Snug down the rocker 'just' until you begin to fell resistance.

You should be sliding the feeler gauge back and forth gently on stock style slotted rocker arms, or gently side-to-side if using roller tip rockers. The valve lash setting should not be tight - the feeling should be about the same as putting a table knife through a stick of cold butter. Not too hard, not too soft. It is beneficial to use 'positive-lock' style rocker arm retention fasteners instead of the basic pinched rocker nuts or Nylox.

If using rocker nuts your job is done, go to the next valve. If using positive-locks, hold the body of the lock in place with a box end or open end wrench (there are special tools available to simply this procedure if you want to spend the $$$ on them) and then carefully tighten the Allen set screw in the center of the posi-lock. When installing a new camshaft, the engine will obviously be cold. The problem is that the provided lash specifications are for an engine that has been running long enough to be at normal operating temperatures. What can we do in this situation? There is a standard correction factor that can be used to get us close to the required settings. We must now consider the material alloys of the various engine parts, because the thermal expansion of these components affect the valve lash in different ways.

Therefore the correction factor used for our lash setting will depend upon whether the cylinder heads and block are made out of cast iron or aluminum. The intake and exhaust valves cannot move until all the running clearance (valve lash) has been taken up. Therefore, the amount of valve lash you use affects the engine's performance.

2000 Camry Timing Belt Diagram

For example, by reducing the amount of (hot) valve lash, the valve will open slightly sooner, provide slightly more lift (valve opening), and will close slightly later. This makes the camshaft look bigger to the engine, due to this slight increase of duration and lift. Increasing the amount of (hot) lash the opposite occurs. The valve will open later, provide slightly lift less, and close slightly sooner. Now the engine sees a smaller cam with slightly less actual duration and lift.

BE CAREFUL - I am suggesting you start with only 0.001 - 0.003' of change in lash. Crazy experimentation can destroy your engine! Use this tuning method to experiment, finding what the engine responds to, then keep the setting that works the best. Just remember, the more lash you run, the noisier the valve train will be, and damage may occur if you are not careful.

If the clearance is excessive it can be harsh or damaging to other valve train components as well. Therefore, prolonged running of the engine is not recommend to increase the amount of lash by more than +0.004' from the recommended setting. Nor is reducing the lash by more than -0.008' recommended. Closing Remarks & Tips:. As mentioned above, the power band can change slightly on an engine using a solid lifter camshaft by varying valve lash settings. A looser lash setting increases the low-end power of the engine where a tighter lash increases top-end power. Careful consideration is necessary for these tweaks because the valve lash is the 'Cooling Time' that the valve needs on each cycle.

If you have too little, or no lash, you take a chance of burning the valves. Using roller rocker arms dramatically increases valve guide life, increases horsepower and also maintains better valve lash settings.

Use them whenver you can! Shaft style rockers are best (less deflection). Stainless steel rockers provide less 'over the valve weight', which is GOOD. Aluminum, though less expensive will deflect more and increase the actual weight over the valve stem. The added weight may not seem critical to you, but this is considered reciprocal weight, which slows down all the components related to it. Additionally, too loose a valve lash setting can damage the valve stem and increase possibility of premature failure of the roller rocker tips.

If using OEM style, stamped steel rocker arms, you could fracture the rocker arm or gall the fulcrum. Engine materials, engine operating RPM, and valvetrain deflection contribute to varying valve lash settings. The higher the RPM, the cheaper the parts you use, and the performance and reliability differences between types of materials contribute to more frequent valve lash adjustments. (By the way, while you are in there with the valve covers off, make the effort to test your valve spring pressures. There are tools available for installed testing of spring pressures). There is FREE horsepower when using a Roller Cam. If you can afford it, do it!

Plus, when using a roller cam, you can change camshafts without the need to change lifters or the go through required lifter break-in procedures, which is mandatory with Hydraulic or Solid 'tappet' camshafts.